Koz Ross

Intersectional feminist. #3dprinting catboy. Haskells occasionally. Prusa critic. On the spectrum. He/him.

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koz_at_chaos.social@mostr.pub

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Last Notes

2024-07-22 06:53:29

What. The. Actual. Hell. Sovol. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=M0Hre9SViQ4
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-06-04 17:54:49

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@npub1hy7…x5um Very good green there.

2024-06-03 05:56:40

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@npub1j04…g0ad That's really good to know - thanks!

2024-06-03 05:20:49

#MiniaturePainting Fedi: can you recommend me a _brush-on_ primer? Spray cans are far too temperamental IME, and the Stynylrez primer I have is only suitable for airbrushing. I usually find that I have to fix up my priming with a brush no matter the method, but currently lack anything suitable.
I would prefer non-enamel, non-lacquer primers. No GW products. Needs to work on resin prints.
#Painting

2024-05-12 18:08:57

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@npub1w7j…t5lz What's the technical paint you used here? I think that's the magic ingredient.

2024-05-12 18:01:37

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@npub1w7j…t5lz How'd you get that colour on the base? It's _super_ vibrant.

2024-02-27 07:39:57

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OK, now I've been given a third one, for the actual printer.
In what reality does something like this take a _week_ to dispatch?

2024-02-27 01:45:16

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One is labelled 'Wash and cure machine', the other is labelled 'Accessories' (which I guess is the air filter?). Notably, _neither_ of them seem to be labelled 'printer'.

2024-02-27 01:44:15

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Well, after sending them _two_ emails about this problem, I got... two tracking numbers? They're definitely different, and are labelled differently as well.
So... two tracking numbers, for three ordered items (technically a bundle), a week after I ordered... wut?

2024-02-26 18:03:10

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Said reply was little more than a form email of stuff to give to their engineering team, including things like 'printer serial number' (bit of a problem, as I don't yet have one) and 'photo/video of the problem' (how the fuck do I even submit that form of information for this question?). Absolute shitshow.

2024-02-26 18:02:03

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Sent Anycubic an email about the lack of a tracking number, or any information at all really, about my order a week ago. Got back a reply... to my question about step size.
Anycubic, this is ridiculous. Whoevever told me they had good customer support, I'm not seeing it right now.

2024-02-26 00:34:05

So far, Anycubic are not impressing me at all. I placed my order almost a week ago, and I don't even have a _tracking number_ yet. Oh, and the question I asked them about step size? I just got ghosted by their support staff, as tends to happen when I ask questions.
Found the answer out myself later anyway (10 microns), but I'm _definitely_ not liking this experience so far.
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-21 04:09:51

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Gonna save on cutting the belts until later, when I figure out how much I need to cut off to make sure the Dragonburner fits well.
Next, bed!

2024-02-21 04:09:11

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And successfully belted! For once, it was surprisingly easy: the diagrams in the manual made it seem much harder than it actually was. Getting the belt tension the same on both took some effort, but that's more inexperience than anything.
One noteworthy cool thing about the BFIs: you can remove their front caps when belting to make the belts easier to thread through them. Really nice design feature.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/967/495/161/042/129/original/ab4ae9e789f924d6.jpg
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/967/498/902/374/536/original/257e4a00de161e5c.jpg

2024-02-21 01:49:12

WIP Trident belting. The absolute chads at Formbot pre-cut the belts, but generously enough that I don't have to worry.
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/966/951/397/681/476/original/0e1cb86bb64d9c54.jpg

2024-02-10 04:24:08

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OK, next-up, T-nuts, and I'm already annoyed. They're a pain to insert and impossible to remove once set. I have one in the wrong way around - what do now, take the whole frame apart?
Why couldn't we preload these?

2024-02-10 02:31:51

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I legitimately had to re-try the assembly for these _four_ times. Each. Absolute garbage design, 0/10, would mod out of existence if doing again.
Does anyone know if there exist any modded AB idlers for Tridents that don't involve this absolute tyre fire of an assembly? Bonus points if no captive nuts required.
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/904/835/660/786/424/original/66a0ebe5568d6c42.jpg

2024-02-10 02:28:21

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Also, captive nuts _on top_ of all this garbage? Honestly, did Daniel Prusa design this?

2024-02-10 02:26:32

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This design is legitimately a perfect storm of stupid. It's like someone was _trying_ to make something pointlessly fiddly and breakable for no reason. I honestly want to know who's responsible for the AB idlers on the Voron Trident so I can do the digital equivalent of kicking them in the shins.

2024-02-10 02:17:46

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It's looking like it'll take me four+ attempts to do the other one as well. Has _nobody_ designed anything better than this? It's annoying to put together, for what feels like no good reason.

2024-02-10 02:13:15

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OK, fourth time was the charm. The trick is to hold the two halves together _super_ tight.

2024-02-10 02:09:19

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Worst part is that the top and bottom halves of the mount friction fit together pretty tightly, so much so that I worry that every time I separate them due to a collapse of the bearing stack, I'll end up breaking one or both.

2024-02-10 02:08:33

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Onto the AB bearing stacks, and holy fuck what even is this. I have tried _three times_ to follow these 'instructions', and each time, when I pull out the bottom screw, the entire bearing stack collapses.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/904/738/121/755/565/original/50508386b2d5d2e2.png

2024-02-09 21:17:00

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One thing I found helped me: when doing the top set of horizontal extrusions, flip the frame over. That way, you can use the flatness of your build surface.

2024-02-09 20:40:23

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First step had no issues, apart from one of the tapped holes on the end of an extrusion having somewhat tight threads. Others? Very smooth.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/903/451/009/803/483/original/5fdab23ed0fafbf3.jpg

2024-02-09 20:26:45

Today, the Trident build begins. I've got my work apron, my square, and, of course, my boss theme from Trails of Cold Steel 3: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u_cpxw0MCMQ
Let's build ourselves a printer!
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-07 21:32:44

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I suspect part of the reason for this is that, due to using a USB connection to their toolhead, they can't feed it more than ~60W of power. However, the large ceramic on the XPlus-3 hotend needs _way_ more than that to function optimally: the similar-sized CHC Pro needs _115_W!

2024-02-07 21:31:08

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Essentially Qidi's entire product page should have more asterisks than the EU flag.

2024-02-07 21:30:01

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Like... there is _so_ much weird budgeting on the design of this printer. They decided to throw money after having a thermocouple, and a whole toolhead PCB, but _not_ decent fans that don't whine, wheeze or outright die?

2024-02-07 21:29:18

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This unfortunately seems to be the trend with all Qidi claims about technical specs - they're _technically_ true, but not at all in practice. What I don't understand about this is that they have a thermocouple for high-temp prints... which thanks to this limitation doesn't do anything you couldn't do with a cheaper thermistor!

2024-02-07 21:28:15

More fun discoveries: when trying to push my PET-without-the-G print temperatures up (per @npub19dt…05k8 's advice), I tried to print at 300C with 50% fan, on the XPlus-3.
Hotend can't sustain even that. It stabilizes at about 296 before it just can't push higher.
For reference, Qidi _claim_ it's capable of 350C!
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-06 22:43:40

#3DPrinting folks - what's the general experience of Paramount 3D ABS? They're my only (reasonably-costed) source of dark red ABS, but I'd like to know if anyone's had an awful time with it.
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-06 18:51:46

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@npub12rs…el26 You said it. Truth right there.

2024-02-06 17:47:05

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@npub12at…me5y Of course, the r/prusa goon squad is out in force.
Regular human being: "Wait, Revo support isn't there? Don't Prusa have bespoke firmware for the MK3 with a Revo?"
r/prusa goon: "Probably E3D's fault."

2024-02-06 17:39:05

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@npub12at…me5y Yes, you read that correctly. _PID calibration_ is an _upcoming_ feature on this 'upgrade'.

2024-02-06 17:37:10

So, Prusa have finally cut a release... and the release notes seem to basically consist of nothing but _upcoming_ features.
Yeah, sure, let the Mini continue to be incompatible with its own _product page_. It's only been _months_ at this point.
https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/releases/tag/v5.2.0
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-04 05:39:50

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Fair point.

2024-02-04 05:37:43

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@npub1uwc…lc5y An enclosed CoreXY seems pretty dope. I mean, I wouldn't get one with _or_ without, but I could see people who'd choose to go without an AMS for a cheap enclosed CoreXY.

2024-02-04 05:27:15

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Can you not get P1Ses without the AMS? I guess then you might as well get a P1P, apart from the panels.

2024-02-04 05:12:06

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Return's probably a better idea. How much would you need to add to make up the difference to a P1S?

2024-02-04 05:03:45

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@npub1uwc…lc5y @npub12at…me5y Which one of these are you thinking of taking?

2024-02-04 03:38:38

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@npub13ck…c0xy Funny how that happens over and over again.

2024-02-04 00:49:38

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My current response to Qidi's 'Rapido' filament.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/870/460/248/730/098/original/9cc858b6e8926dfd.jpg

2024-02-04 00:44:47

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Worth mentioning that the difference between the 30 VF I got from the 'Rapido' PLA and the 29 VF I got here is quite likely a visual or measuring error.

2024-02-04 00:44:11

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Just to make my point even harder: I did a 230C racetrack with KiwiFil PLA Pro (my go-to PLA), and got 29 VF (so only a tiny bit lower than 'Rapido'). Note how the failure happens: there's no weird attenuated region before major failure. This is why most 'speed' or 'fast' PLAs are a waste of money: you get basically the same flow, they just hide under-extrusion better.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/870/437/577/310/003/original/815b43ceefb0052f.jpg

2024-02-04 00:15:38

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Holy fuck what. Seriously, that'd tear divots in a bed.

2024-02-03 23:52:26

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Probably not even gonna finish tuning this as a result. On the whole, I'd give this a resounding 'meh', with a side of false advertising. There's better options at better prices.

2024-02-03 23:51:06

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Regardless of anything else, I wouldn't ever buy this stuff. It's nothing different to regular matte PLA, and even _without_ considering shipping, I can get PolyTerra for less. My usual go-to PLA (KiwiFil), while not matte, is even cheaper, and I _know_ the quality's good.
Basically, feels like a waste.

2024-02-03 23:47:44

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Alrighty, ran the 230C voluflow racetrack, got 30 VF. I guess I shouldn't be very surprised, though it's better than I expected. CHT nozzle is doing some really heavy lifting here.
One thing I can definitely see is that this matte PLA is _really_ matte. Not normally a problem, but it definitely doesn't look similar to the much glossier PolyMax PC.

2024-02-03 23:04:15

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Alrighty, let's see what we get at the more reasonable 230C. I expect it'd probably be closer to about 28, which is still plenty good.

2024-02-03 22:59:39

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Oh, and those markings lower-down? VFAs from these damn garbage motors Qidi stuck in this printer.

2024-02-03 22:59:21

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What you're seeing here is the typical behaviour of 'speed' or 'hig-flow' PLAs: they hide under-extrusion better. Ordinary PLA would start 'breaking up' a lot sooner, instead of this streaky minor choking we see here. In reality, you're not flowing better, you're just seeing your loss of extrusion less.

2024-02-03 22:46:13

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@npub12rs…el26 Also, I am strangely proud that you tag _me_ in on filament issues, lol.

2024-02-03 22:44:55

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@npub12rs…el26 Oh yeah, that's not gonna cut it for sure. Those things can do PLA, PETG on a _good_ day, and TPU, but nothing more.

2024-02-03 22:43:40

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@npub12rs…el26 Could be: ASA wants to be dried fairly hot, and many dryers can't hit that temp. What've you got at the moment?

2024-02-03 22:38:53

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@npub12rs…el26 I haven't worked with PolyLite ASA very much, but I can't say it had any adhesion problems. What kind of surface, what colour, what bed temp?

2024-02-03 22:38:18

I just sent this to @npub1vtd…efl7 and had to share.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/869/944/053/505/459/original/d851b222474d0cf3.png

2024-02-03 22:06:51

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A 5s layer time is _hilariously_ optimistic for PLA. Their stock cooling fan is wimpy, their ducting sucks, their stupid leafblower is one-sided, badly-directed and anemic (and they're not even enabling it!), and the heat trapping of their enclosure, combined with the fact you can only open the front and remove the top, means you'll get heat damage if you even attempt to go that fast. All my experience with PLA on this printer bears this out.

2024-02-03 22:05:40

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Qidi's stock config limits perimeter speed to 200mm. This is eminently sensible (their E motors sucks pretty bad so even that's optimistic, but you know, details). At that speed (which is where PA matters), you don't need anything even _resembling_ that number for PLA. PETG maybe, but PLA would be fine with 0.025 at the most.

2024-02-03 22:04:24

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The 55C bed is an odd choice: normally, 60C is what people use for PLA. This suggests they either blend it for adhesion or their matting agents actually _lower_ its Tg. Their own numbers don't seem to bear this out, although they only give HDTs, not Tgs: https://wiki.qidi3d.com/en/Memo/Filament-Guide
That PA is _ludicrously_ high for a voluflow cap of 20. Assuming typical 0.4mm nozzle numbers (0.4mm EW, 0.2mm layer height), that's a speed cap of 250. But it gets better!

2024-02-03 03:34:38

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Thanks to a more reasonable reading by @npub18h0…crws , it seems I was mistaken. They don't actually hike the safety limit, they just reduced the nylon load temp to 280C instead of 285.
In this regard, I'm glad that they're going to fix this problem, but this took them close to _four months_! The fix is trivial, and could have been done as a hotfix release, but no, it's the Mini, who cares if it disagrees with its product page, Prusa's own docs _and_ its other features...

2024-02-03 03:26:39

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That particular thing got swept under the rug, with 'safety margins' as an excuse.
Well, seems those safety margins don't actually matter, because this commit _deliberately_ hacks the temp limit _only_ when loading nylon!
The next person who makes _any_ quality claims about Prusa firmware, or indeed, Prusa _anything_ in my mentions can review this entire saga and seriously repeat those claims with a straight face.

2024-02-03 03:25:31

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Instead, you must select from a set of pre-defined options. One of these options is for nylon... and requires a heatup to 285C. Which the printer obviously can no longer do.
Now, after I badgered (and got severely gaslit by) the devs dealing with the firmware, the limit was raised from 275 to 280. This resolves (at least once released!) the issues with the first two examples, but not the third! (cont)

2024-02-03 03:23:37

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Firstly, it disagrees with its product page, which clearly (STILL!) specifies that its hotend temperature limit is 280: https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/commit/9e91e876091aab34cc6b9ffca65e798c1e52c713
Secondly, it disagrees with Prusa's own documentation, such as for hot tightening, which clearly states that you need to heat to 280C: https://help.prusa3d.com/article/changing-replacing-the-nozzle-mini_134235
Lastly, and most hilariously, this disagrees with _the rest of the firmware_. The Mini has a ... quickly design that you can't just load filament. (cont)

2024-02-03 03:21:11

So, Prusa have tagged (but not officially cut) a new release of the Buddy firmware (5.2.0). I've been looking at the (many) changes they rolled in, and found this actual gem: https://github.com/prusa3d/Prusa-Firmware-Buddy/commit/9e91e876091aab34cc6b9ffca65e798c1e52c713
Some context: about _four months_ ago, I reported the Mini as having a temperature cap of 275C on the hotend. This would be fine, but this disagrees with several places. (cont)
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-02 22:35:28

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@npub1zdp…j5tj How many % more have you gotten?

2024-02-02 22:13:02

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@npub1uwc…lc5y I'm glad to hear that. I sometimes wonder what reality those folks dwell in, so good to see it somewhat resembles our own.

2024-02-02 22:12:20

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@npub134n…sx9t @npub19sd…u6lg @npub12at…me5y Maybe I just don't know better...

2024-02-02 22:02:07

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@npub134n…sx9t @npub19sd…u6lg @npub12at…me5y FWIW, BTT are pretty good at providing spec information. Just not in this particular case.

2024-02-02 22:01:24

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@npub19sd…u6lg @npub12at…me5y Yeah, this is basically what @npub1vtd…efl7 said as well. Decided to just contact BTT and ask.

2024-02-02 21:56:27

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Given how secretive they are, I have to wonder if this is less optimism, and more concern that they can't sweep it under the rug of their screaming fanboy crowd.

2024-02-02 21:40:48

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@npub1uwc…lc5y My suspicion, based on what I've seen Nero3D report on, is that its electrical issues are more severe than just cable strain, and they're trying to determine how bad it is before saying anything.
The reason I say this is because some folks reported cable burn that was _nowhere_ near the part that could get strained.

2024-02-02 21:06:57

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@npub134n…sx9t @npub12at…me5y Good case in point: 5V LEDs. Those things can suck down current fast.

2024-02-02 21:06:37

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@npub134n…sx9t @npub12at…me5y I'm not doing anything in particular yet, just wanted to know what my limits are in case I want to repurpose those connectors.

2024-02-02 21:02:38

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Good move. Proactively keeping garbage off your timeline is a good thing.

2024-02-02 20:57:40

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@npub1uwc…lc5y Who'd you kick to the kerb, if you don't mind saying?

2024-02-02 20:56:16

Electronics-knowledgeable #3DPrinting folks: the BTT Octopus Pro has 5V on its endstop connectors. How can I tell how many amps I can drive through that?
Schematics here: https://github.com/bigtreetech/BIGTREETECH-OCTOPUS-Pro
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-02 18:22:41

We've had Prusa honey by Daniel Prusa, how about Prusa weeb T-shirt by Daniel Prusa? https://www.prusa3d.com/product/prusament-dragon-t-shirt-s/
For those who can't read Japanese, the T-shirt literally has 'filament' transcribed phonetically on it in katakana.
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-02 02:52:34

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@npub18h0…crws To be honest I'm probably being paranoid. Z is the axis of least motion (and least speed), so even if they aren't the best motors, I'll probably be OK. I'd be more concerned if it was one of my AB motors or my E motor that was sketchy.

2024-02-02 02:45:19

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So, to summarize my initial look:
- The kit is basic, but fine.
- Those Z motors are a bit ehh, but @npub18h0…crws assures me I have nothing to worry about.
- The panels are definitely bad. The black ones I'm going to complain about, as I don't think this is acceptable.
I'm sure as the build goes on, I'll find more, which I will document as I go along.

2024-02-02 02:27:10

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Extrusions appear well cut and straight. The anodization was very thorough - even the ends are anodized, where they'd usually be cut. I don't know if this will affect blind joints, but I doubt it. While I haven't checked every single one with a square, aside from a few scuffs, I'm not seeing any immediate issues.

2024-02-02 02:25:51

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Hotend included is the most bog-standard V6 clone possible. Not a concern for me, as I'm not going to be using it.

2024-02-02 02:22:45

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Omron SSR, rated for a 10A load. G3NB-210B-1 is the model number. Given that my bed is only 300W, that's just a bit more than _1_A, so I don't think I'll have heat problems.

2024-02-02 02:21:39

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The exact big Moons I have is a 'MS17HD6P420I-04's, while the small one is a 'CSE14HRA1L410A-01'. Might look at their official spec sheets to see if I can divine anything.
No clue how good these are or not - anyone knowledgeable please chime in!

2024-02-02 02:18:54

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The NEMA-17 Moons have the following numbers of note:
- 2A current
- 0.67 Nm holding torque
- 1.3 ohm (+-15%) phase resistance at 20C
- 2.7mH (+-20%) phase inductance (1kHz 1V rms)
- 82gcm^2 rotor inertia
No temp range is specced. For the small pancake:
- 1A rated current
- 100mNm holding torque
- 1.9 ohm (+-10%) phase resistance at 20C
- 1.41mH (+-20%) phase inductance (1kHz 1V rms)
- 9gcm^2 rotor inertia
Again, no temp spec.

2024-02-02 02:15:16

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Next-up, a bit of a surprise! A _printed_ spec sheet for all the motors, including those mystery Oukedas. Not gonna post pics (alt text would be a _huge_ pain), but I can share a few specifics on the Oukedas:
- 2A motors
- 1.1 ohm (+-10%) phase resistance at 20C
- 2.6 mH (+-20%) phase inductance
- 0.45N.m static moment (is that detent torque, holding torque, something else?)
- Ambient temp -20C to +50C (feels a bit low, eeee)
The Moons specs are also included.

2024-02-02 02:11:42

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Machined bed! It feels super-solid, and claims to be MIC-6, though I can't verify that. The declaration of flatness is encouraging, and I can see clear machining marks. Edges are nicely broken (meaning 'not going to slice your finger open'), and thickness is 8mm according to my calipers. Overall, nice!
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/454/571/682/320/original/44e7d3db10279940.jpg

2024-02-02 02:06:10

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Next, magnetic sticker (boring, so won't show) and print sheet. It seems to be textured on one side, smooth on the other. Feels like the Energetic ones I'm used to (and probably is, to be honest).
Oh, and Voron branding. On both sides. Ick. I'll likely be replacing this in fairly short order, depending on its longevity.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/433/361/655/198/original/b975bcefd8059703.jpg
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/433/389/469/934/original/3fce8f7fac943481.jpg

2024-02-02 02:02:16

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Alrighty, next-up, heated bed. This is at 220V, 300W, which for a 25cm x 25cm bed, gives you a power density of 0.48. Since the 'good' range is supposed to be 0.4 to 0.6, that puts it square in the middle. It has a thermal fuse wired on at 125C, which basically means max safe temp is about 115-120. BOM is 120C, so slightly out-of-spec, but I reckon that's an acceptable variance.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/419/222/468/423/original/aecad72406b8d85f.jpg

2024-02-02 01:55:16

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I guess these are Z motors, so it's probably fine if they're a bit ehh, but I can't even find any specs for these, which doesn't fill me with confidence. If someone can link me to some info on these, I'd be very grateful!

2024-02-02 01:54:04

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Uhh, those aren't Moons! Kinda scummy move on Formbot's part, as they proudly blare that they use Moons, although their BOM doesn't specify that the Z motors are Moons, just generic. Still, scummy.
Leadscrews appear fine, and have brass couplers without anti-backlash nuts. Probably fine, but still, a bit stingy.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/383/045/192/662/original/4e5873d0eb28c314.jpg
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2024-02-02 00:54:49

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Fasteners for days. Easily the heaviest bag in this section yet.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/154/178/271/922/original/a91a11fd1bc4bf24.jpg

2024-02-02 00:52:29

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Next, two whole kinds of tape! I know one of these is VHB, but no clue what the other one is.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/145/782/472/388/original/1efe63585701affe.jpg

2024-02-02 00:49:30

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Next, a _giant_ bag of wiring! I'm not going to pull all these apart now, as I'll never pack them back again, but they all seem terminated (or at least ferruled), and feature labels (yay!), labelled sub-bags (yay!) and every connector known to humanity. At a glance, I see JSTs, rings, spades, ferrules, Duponts, and several kinds of passthroughs. One wire also has an inline diode, which I suspect is for the 24V probe.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/131/891/270/937/original/5ad49bd035de9f8a.jpg
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/131/894/664/155/original/68d19e6e1e77d5ce.jpg

2024-02-02 00:42:56

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Next, two bags of PTFE tube. The 3mm ID one I get - that's a reverse Bowden. What the 2mm ID one is for, I have no idea.
Checking the Trident BOM, it does seem there's _two_ bits of tubing required. One is indeed 3mm ID, the other is just labelled 'Bowden Tube (m)', whatever the heck _that_ means.
Voron, sort out your damn docs.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/107/865/911/613/original/5b974d6e0e8e89c1.jpg

2024-02-02 00:38:14

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Next, rails, and _wow_, do these sound amazing! Note, this is _without_ grease. Some of them (notably one of the Y rails and the X rail) definitely need greasing, but on the whole, these are the best rails I've yet worked on.
Funny that they have these green 'QC PASS' stickers on them. Clearly.
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/088/663/688/506/original/376aca5db073a7b1.mp4

2024-02-02 00:35:12

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OK, I've got my work apron and cat ears on, 'The Glint of Cold Steel' is blazing through my ears, time to examine this kit! First-off, the panels, and I already have questions: are the coroplas ones _meant_ to look this dinged up? PC ones are OK, if a bit peely, and for some reason, protective film is only on one side. Concerning.
If you wanna listen along: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tzVRC2l-eqs
https://assets.chaos.social/media_attachments/files/111/859/072/596/894/279/original/efcf656ae06c4016.jpg
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2024-02-01 22:51:36

My 250 Trident kit by Formbot has arrived! Well ahead of when I expected it, but glad all the same.
In true Koz tradition, we're going to have a thread about it. I'll definitely document whatever I find in a more thorough format later, kinda like what BallisticTech did for the 0.2 kit.
#3DPrinting
@npub12at…me5y

2024-02-01 22:22:58

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@npub1zdp…j5tj Let me guess. It costs twice as much as the other honey, only works if you use the official spoons, and basically is otherwise the same as all other honey?
Oh, and you have to wait 4 weeks before they send it, because they have lead times.

2024-02-01 03:41:12

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@npub1jxd…z0rn @npub12at…me5y It's actually _very_ common nowadays in most 'big' DIY 3D printing communities. All Vorons but the Legacy use linear rails; the Hevort and VzBot both use linear rails; all of the Annex Engineering printers use linear rails...