I sent the photo to a couple friends, and one of them went by a few days later to pick one up for herself. That night she said, “You know it’s AI-generated, right?”
Wait, what? Liberty of London (https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/information/our-heritage.html)? The famed 150-year-old “purveyor of craftsmanship,” that prides itself on its “dedicated in-house design studio” who are responsible for “hand painting and creating our beautiful prints”? THAT Liberty of London?
Yep, them. (https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/avalon-scenes-tana-lawn%E2%84%A2-cotton-000821829.html?queryID=3934837d9d7aea2f5ecc925d74df1cb3&objectID=R600923006&indexName=production_emea_libertyltd_demandware_net__liberty__products__default) Check the “Editor’s Notes”:
For Avalon Scenes, the design studio approached Tom Furse, an artist and musician who specialises in creating artwork with AI in controlled environments. Harnessing the cutting-edge potential of AI technology, this design conjures a display of surreal landscapes morphing into psychedelic flower forms…
Well, that sucks. I had a good long think about it. It really is a lovely dress. I am not against algorithmic art entirely, and I can see cases where I’d be fine with this – like if the model was trained only on Liberty’s pattern archive. But I could find zero mention of the technology used, not on Liberty’s site or the artist’s website or Instagram. (The artist is actually a musician that seems to dabble in AI, so I doubt he’s training his own models for this.) I contacted Liberty through both their website and Facebook page to ask for details, explaining that I was concerned about whether the model used for their AI-generated fabric was trained on any stolen artwork, and how the environmental impacts of the project lived up to Liberty’s stated corporate social responsibility (https://www.libertylondon.com/uk/information/corporate-social-responsibility.html) goals. I got a reply back asking “Which AI-generated fabric specifically are you asking about?”
Not good.
I decided to return the dress today for one featuring Australian plants photographed straight from the shop owner’s garden. Made590 were lovely about it, and I can’t fault them – most people wouldn’t feel as strongly about this as I do. But right now I’m in the “no ethical use of AI” (https://www.wired.com/story/the-prompt-ethical-generative-ai-does-not-exist/) camp, and I’d rather pay artists for their art. I’m so disappointed in Liberty – ACTUAL LIBERTY OF LONDON – jumping on the AI trend bandwagon. Ugh. I’ll update if they ever send me the details, but for now I feel a lot better about my pretty new dress. https://www.web-goddess.org/archive/71859
